Archive for the ‘Conditions’ Category

A big south swell has arrived along with the heat of the summer. Current conditions are glassy 4-7+ foot faces and 18 second periods. It doesn’t get much better than this on the south shore.

From the looks of the forecast, the swell will be sticking around for the next few days.

This morning I paddled out at Tongs (next to old man’s) and had a blast. The waves were doubleing up a bit as they normally do there, but looking up and down the shore a few of the nearby breaks were just beautiful.

Stay tuned for some pictures and more surf reports as the week goes on!

With the south swell peaking today, I headed over to Panics / Flies once again and was greeted with 2-3′ overhead surf.

The offshore wind was more intense today, but just enough to hold the wave up and provided some decent barrels.

Signs of summer south swells are here. There is a solid head-high swell pounding the south shore right now, and looks like it will get even bigger tomorrow. With very light winds, the conditions are glassy epicness.

Both yesterday morning and this morning I paddled out at Flies. There were only a few people out and the conditions perfect. There were some lulls between sets, as there normally are at Flies, but looking over at Kewalos and Panics, it was very consistant.

It’s a great week to grab your board and hit the water!

Yesterday I headed over to one of my favorite surf spots on the south shore, Sand Island beach park. The swell was too small for the regular break to be working, which is the one straight out from the watch tower. Since it was high tide, the right that forms off of the super shallow reef was working perfectly. The wave was breaking chest to head high, fast and super hollow on 2-3′ of water over the sharp reef.

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There was a very rare north wind, which gave a perfect on-shore breeze that held the wave up enough to get long rides around the edge of the reef. All in all it was a ton of fun and since there was only 2 of us out there, the waves were plentiful.

After a while the guy on the stand-up paddle board pointed right next to me and started yelling “shark!, shark!”. Apparently he saw the shark swim right by me and its dorsal fin sick out of the water. Needless to say I pretty much high tailed it back to shore. That’s twice now people around me have spotted a shark, and I have yet to see one with my own eyes. I must not look very tasty.

There are multiple north swells rolling in that were generated from big storms near Japan and compounded by heavy winds. The forecast is telling us that big waves will likely continue through the rest of January! These swells are generating surf upwards of 20-40′+ faces.


This photo shows Bruce Irons winning ride in the 2004 Eddie Aikau big wave competition, taken by Chad Podoski.

With surf like this rolling in, the Eddie is sure to go off this month! Be sure to sign up for text notifications so you can be there to watch the pros compete in insanely big waves at Waimea bay.