This morning was nothing short of epic conditions. Paddled out at Tongs, then over to Rice Bowl, then to Old Mans. All 3 were going off. Glassy overhead barrels everywhere. Rice Bowl was the cleanest.
Occasional double overhead cleaner sets where coming through every half hour or so. Watch out for those!
I took some more pics at DiamondHead. Will post soon.
Yesterday the swell was still pounding the south shore, though not quite as strong as on Wed. The tradewinds picked upto 10-15 mph so it was not nearly as clean either.
I paddled out at Old Mans, and while I thought the swell was big enough for the funboard, I was wrong. The waves break really (really) thick there even with overhead waves. The longboarders were having a blast though.
Afterwords I swung by Diamondhead Cliffs and snapped a picture of the choppy/crappy waves that were breaking there:
Forecast
Today looks like the swell has tapered off to 2-5′ faces, and the wind has picked up even more. Tomorrow a new swell arrives which will bring us 7′+ faces once again, though the trades are predected to be in the 10-25 mph range, it should still be good fun!
A big south swell has arrived along with the heat of the summer. Current conditions are glassy 4-7+ foot faces and 18 second periods. It doesn’t get much better than this on the south shore.
From the looks of the forecast, the swell will be sticking around for the next few days.
This morning I paddled out at Tongs (next to old man’s) and had a blast. The waves were doubleing up a bit as they normally do there, but looking up and down the shore a few of the nearby breaks were just beautiful.
Stay tuned for some pictures and more surf reports as the week goes on!
Laforet Visuals has released another amazing HD video from their filming sessions on the north shore. See the full HD video here.
Just a day after I created what is probably the worst surf video ever made (gotta start somewhere right?), I stumbled across the most amazing piece of surf footage I’ve ever seen in my existence. There is a film crew at pipeline over the next week or two with the best state-of-the-art HD video equipment known to man, getting unreal footage of Jamie O’Brien, a well known pipeline surfer who is taking surfing to new levels.
Smugmug has sponsored Vincent Laforet and his company to get this footage and post the results using Smugmug’s excellent online HD video capabilities.
The first clip they came out with is of Jame O’Brien taking a monster back door wave, then switching his stance while in the tube. Never before have you seen such crisp quality in a surf video, and it really gives you a feel for how critical this wave is.
Be sure to watch the full HD version of this video!
There are multiple north swells rolling in that were generated from big storms near Japan and compounded by heavy winds. The forecast is telling us that big waves will likely continue through the rest of January! These swells are generating surf upwards of 20-40′+ faces.
This photo shows Bruce Irons winning ride in the 2004 Eddie Aikau big wave competition, taken by Chad Podoski.
With surf like this rolling in, the Eddie is sure to go off this month! Be sure to sign up for text notifications so you can be there to watch the pros compete in insanely big waves at Waimea bay.
