Posts Tagged ‘Waves’

Yesterday, December 8th 2009, was the first time since 2004 that the Eddie was a go. By 8am Waimea Bay was packed full of people watching the first heats paddle out into 40′+ waves.

Spectators in awe of a huge set pounding the shore

As if you needed a sign…

House size swell

Sharks Cove, normally a tranquil snorkeling kid-friendly lagoon, today a treacherous washing machine of explosive water.

Pulling into the close out shore break after a long ride from the outside.

Thousands packed in all the way around the bay

Another long ride into the shore pound.

Wall of water

Struggling to get out of the shore break

Surrounded by white wash

Kelly Slater preparing to take one on the head…all to amuse the screaming spectators.

Mountains of water

There is a gigantic swell heading towards the north shore of Oahu right now. They’re predicting faces of 30-40′ on Monday and Tuesday of next week.

This means that there’s a great chance that the Big wave invatational in memory of Eddie Aikau will go off.

Excited to feel the rumble of the waves breaking on the shore

The current south swell is holding strong, with a new swell arriving today, bringing the wave heights to the advisery level of 10′ faces. It looks like this swell will peak on Wed. with 10′++ waves.

Strong trades continue to blow from the east, so get out there early to get the more glassy conditions.

For those of you into extreme moonlight surfing, the full moon was last night and should still be shining bright tonight.

Yesterday the swell was still pounding the south shore, though not quite as strong as on Wed. The tradewinds picked upto 10-15 mph so it was not nearly as clean either.

I paddled out at Old Mans, and while I thought the swell was big enough for the funboard, I was wrong. The waves break really (really) thick there even with overhead waves. The longboarders were having a blast though.

Afterwords I swung by Diamondhead Cliffs and snapped a picture of the choppy/crappy waves that were breaking there:

Forecast

Today looks like the swell has tapered off to 2-5′ faces, and the wind has picked up even more. Tomorrow a new swell arrives which will bring us 7′+ faces once again, though the trades are predected to be in the 10-25 mph range, it should still be good fun!

A big south swell has arrived along with the heat of the summer. Current conditions are glassy 4-7+ foot faces and 18 second periods. It doesn’t get much better than this on the south shore.

From the looks of the forecast, the swell will be sticking around for the next few days.

This morning I paddled out at Tongs (next to old man’s) and had a blast. The waves were doubleing up a bit as they normally do there, but looking up and down the shore a few of the nearby breaks were just beautiful.

Stay tuned for some pictures and more surf reports as the week goes on!

Australian cameraman Bali Strickland caught some amazing surf footage of a 12′ barrel in super slow motion. He used a $100,000 high speed and high def cam for the job, with the results revealing new evidence of how waves are actually formed underwater.

Bali must be one hell of a water photographer to be trusted with a camera that expensive in 12′ waves.

Read more here